There are a few plants that quietly earn their keep in the garden, and peonies are right at the top of that list for me. They don’t ask for much, they return reliably every spring, and their blooms feel like a reward for simply giving them a good start. Growing peonies has taught me patience, but it’s also shown me that a little attention to detail can pay off for decades—literally. Some peony plants can thrive for fifty years or more.
Whether you’re new to gardening or just finally giving in to the lure of peonies, these are the nine essential steps I’ve learned (sometimes the hard way) to grow peonies that truly thrive year after year.
Quickly Find Growing Tips for Peonies
1. Pick Your Peony Type (Paeonia spp.)
Before you start digging, it helps to know what kind of peony you’re planting. There are three main types: herbaceous, tree, and Itoh (intersectional) hybrids. I started with herbaceous peonies because they’re the most common and least fussy. They die back in winter and re-emerge in spring, no pruning puzzles required.
Tree peonies, on the other hand, keep their woody stems year-round and bloom earlier in the season. They’re a little more delicate, but the flowers are often huge and a bit exotic-looking. Itoh peonies are hybrids of the two—they bloom like tree peonies but behave like herbaceous ones. They can be pricey, but worth it if you’re after something unique.
2. Find the Right Spot in the Sun
Peonies are a little like cats: they want their own space and lots of sun. I’ve found the best blooms come when the plant gets at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. Less than that, and you might still get some flowers, but they’ll be sparse.
Airflow matters too. Peonies are susceptible to powdery mildew and botrytis if they’re too crowded. I try to give mine about three feet of breathing room on all sides. It looks a little bare the first year or two, but once they fill out, it’s worth the spacing.
3. Prep the Soil Deep and Wide
Peonies have deep roots, and they like to settle in for the long haul. I always dig a hole about 18 inches deep and wide, then mix the native soil with compost and a handful of bonemeal. They don’t need fancy soil, just something well-draining and moderately fertile.
If your soil tends to be clay-heavy like mine, amending with compost and a little sand or perlite can help. I’ve also learned to avoid over-fertilizing—peonies that get too much nitrogen put all their energy into leaves, not flowers.
4. Plant Eyes Up—But Not Too Deep
This step is more important than it seems. If you plant peony roots too deep, they won’t bloom. I learned this the hard way with a bare root I tucked in about four inches too low. It grew lush leaves for years before finally sending up a flower.
The pinkish-red buds (called “eyes”) should sit no more than 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. In warmer zones, aim for just 1 inch. Planting in fall gives them time to establish before winter, but spring planting is okay too—it just might mean waiting an extra year for flowers.
5. Water Deeply, Not Daily
Peonies don’t like soggy soil, but they do appreciate a deep drink now and then, especially in their first year. I water mine thoroughly once a week if it hasn’t rained. A good soaking encourages the roots to grow down, making the plant more drought-resistant later.
I also mulch lightly with shredded leaves or straw to help retain moisture—but never pile it up around the crown. That’s an open invitation for rot, which is one of the few things that can truly take down a mature peony.
6. Support Those Blooms (Paeonia lactiflora)
Some peonies hold themselves upright just fine, but many—especially double-flowered varieties like ‘Sarah Bernhardt’—will flop over at the first heavy rain. I learned to get ahead of this by using grow-through rings early in the season.
It feels silly placing a support when the plant is just a few inches tall, but if you wait, you’ll regret it. I place the ring when I see the first few shoots, and by the time the plant fills out, the support is hidden and the flowers stay upright.
7. Fertilize Once, and Keep It Light
Peonies don’t need constant feeding. I usually apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer or a handful of compost around the base in early spring, just as the shoots are emerging. That’s it.
Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers—those are better for leafy plants, not blooming ones. Too much feeding can actually discourage blooms or cause overly lush foliage that’s prone to disease.
8. Deadhead and Cut Back at the Right Time
Once the flowers are spent, I snip them off just above the nearest leaf. It keeps the plant looking tidy and prevents it from putting energy into seed production. But I don’t cut back the foliage until after a hard frost and once the leaves have yellowed.
Peonies need those leaves to photosynthesize and store energy for next year’s blooms. Cutting them too early can weaken the plant. In late fall, I trim everything down to ground level and dispose of the foliage to prevent overwintering disease.
9. Let Them Settle In
The biggest lesson I’ve learned? Peonies don’t like to be fussed with. Once they’re planted, they really want to be left alone. Moving them or disturbing their roots often sets them back a few years. That said, they’re surprisingly tough once established.
Give your peony a few years to settle before expecting big bouquets. I usually see a single bloom in year two and a full flush by year three or four. After that, they’re dependable show-offs—returning every year without fail.
Final Thoughts: A Long-Term Garden Companion
Peonies have become one of the most rewarding plants in my garden, not just because of their blooms but because of how little they ask in return. Once you’ve set them up with the right spot, they’ll keep coming back—stronger and more spectacular with each passing year.
There’s something comforting about that kind of loyalty in a plant. So if you’ve got the patience to plant now and wait a while, peonies are more than worth it. They’ll be there long after annuals fade and garden trends come and go.